Morning tour of central Belgrade
We arrived in the capital during the night and were herded onto our color-coded buses for a combination walking-riding tour of the city under the watchful care of Maja, our local guide. Central Belgrade sits above the river docks and can be reached via motorized vehicle, as we did, or by a 120-step staircase. (We did not!)
Our Belgrade walk-about
Maja escorted us from the French Embassy (our drop-off and pick-up spot) down the pedestrian area, pointing out a few architectural and culinary highlights unique to Belgrade & Serbia.
Seen on our Belgrade walk-about
Cathedral Church of St. Michael the Archangel
A beautifully-ornate spire led us to the Cathedral Church of St. Michael the Archangel. Located directly across the street is the Patriarchate Building, the administrative center of the Serbian Orthodox Church.
One of several daily services was underway inside the church. But the door was open…and we are nosey tourists. So a few of us quietly stepped into the vestibule/gift shop to silently observe (and, who’s kidding who, take photographs) as the priest and congregation worshipped.
We returned to the bus to continue the tour as we made our pilgrimage to the Museum of Yugoslavia grounds and the final resting place of the Benevolent Dictator, Josip Broz Tito.
The Museum of Yugoslavia – aka the Museum of May 25th
Unfortunately, it was Monday…and all museums are closed. Fortunately, the building’s air-conditioned lobby and restrooms, as well as the House of Flowers, were opened for our group.
The House of Flowers
We have reached our pilgrimage’s destination: Tito’s tomb. Located in the House of Flowers, once Tito’s personal conservatory, the building contains not only the tombs of both the benevolent dictator and his (fourth) wife, but artifacts, diplomatic gifts and large poster boards illustrating the impact of the great leader’s passing on his people and the world.
Most curious were the shards of (bronze, I assume) death masks, apparently unsuccessful and discarded, that were artfully displayed for our admiration.
Statues gracing the House of Flowers grounds
There were many more than just the two captured below – I had to be selective. I don’t know if these were for Tito’s pleasure when he was alive or not. He did live on the grounds.
(The questions get asked but go unanswered when the museum is shuttered and the docents frolicking elsewhere.)
And, having had four wives, bare-breasted nymphs and wispy bronze sirens seemed more appropriate than the scattering of likewise unclad men I found as we crossed the garden. However, these two evoked an emotional response – a chuckle – and, as such, deserved to be acknowledged!,
(The “drama queen” has great meme potential, don’t you think, MDR?)
Church of Saint Sava
We never actually went to the cathedral. Our first view was in the distance from the front of the Yugoslav Museum. (That’s where this pic was taken.) Later, as our bus tour continued, we actually drove by it. But a bus picture? I think not.
But since it is the St. Peter’s of Serbian Orthodoxy and a Goliath of the skyline, it deserved a nod and blog immortality.
Departing Belgrade
Our departure from the Serbian capital was under the cloak of night: a night that brought a dramatic lowering of the day’s high temperatures and a light breeze. In fact, I found myself chilled. (Yeah! I know! And in this European heat dome!) Excusing myself, I returned to the (equally-cool) room, knowing I could wrap myself up in a cozy blanket.
Eastern Europe: Black Sea to Budapest 